Would you like some grapefruit? Would you like some drugs?

As we rolled into the sleepy reggae town of Cahuita on the Caribbean coast I had something on my mind... Does Cahuita have a pie shop? And if so, do they weigh the pies there? And when they weigh the pies, do all the pies weigh the same, or do they weigh different amounts? Indeed, I was keen to find out about the Pie Weights of the Caribbean... (It took a while to think that one up, but it seems to be taking even longer to work it into conversation.)

Cahuita is just what you expect from a small Caribbean town - reggae music fills the street at night, the beach is picture perfect, and there's no such thing as a 'rush' - everyone goes at their own, ambling pace. My favourite thing about Cahuita, however, is the drug dealers. They have an almost childlike innocence about them, a lovely naive quality. They'll ask you if you want some of their drugs, and if you say no they'll still come back a wee while later just to see if you've changed your mind - they're nice like that. Drug dealers in Cahuita also have a brilliant opening gambit, which mostly involves offering you some fruit before moving onto the harder stuff: "Hey brother, you want some grapefruit? You want some drugs?" We've just started telling them we once overdosed on papaya - they know what that's like. Don't get high off your own supply. At least they're eager to see we're getting our '5-a-day'...

As things stand we've changed our plans, skipping the expensive and somewhat innaccessible Tortuguero for the South Caribbean coast. Last night we had a bit of indoor camping at Rocking J's and a bit of nightswimming with some crazy Americans. At time of writing, Woody and me have hired what must be the two girliest bikes in Puerto Viejo (pink, with baskets) to cycle to Manzanillo to check what Punta Mona are saying to it, and also to do some snorkeling... Word.